Spring is in the air

In Southern California we are blessed with beautiful weather year round . We don’t get the super cold Winters, below 0 temperatures or even that much rain, but come March there is always some South swell in the water and beautiful sunsets.

I love to run down to the beach after work with my dog “Wade”; my 3 year old Newfoundland. the beach is still uncrowded and always the best place to watch a sunset.

 

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Epic sunset
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even the dogs love sunsets..
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a nice little South swell in the water.
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would you just look at those eyes.....
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a dogs life is pretty good.
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The king and his throne.

 

 

 

My new Hobie 9’9 & 10’2 CP Stinger signature model SUP surf boards

I just got my new 9’9 and 10’2 CP Stinger signature SUP surf boards in from Hobie. I did a lot of R&D with a couple different shapes and finally came up with something that has the drive and manuverability of a short board and the glide and stability of a high performance longboard. I like speed and the ability to turn on a dime and the confidence to hit a section as hard as possible and ride away from it and that is what my new boards are all about..

Dimensions:  10’2 x 28.875″ wide x 4.65″ thick.        9’9 x 28″ wide x 4.5″ thick

You can test drive these boards at the Hobie surf shop or log onto Hobie.com

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The top side of the 10'2 & the 9'9 SUP boards

bottom side 10'2 & 9'9

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good rocker and flow throughout the board
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9'9 all ready to hit the water.
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riding the nose is always fun
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putting the board to work at home.

Winter swell road trip

When you don’t get the big waves at home, you have to go find them. Anytime the buoys are showing 15′ ft or bigger with light to offshore winds, I’m out the door on a mission.

my phone is ringing off the hook and I’m glued to my laptop studying weather and wave models on the internet to make sure I know where to go to get the best conditions and the best waves. Sometimes it’s a gamble, but that’s what makes it an adventure.

On this particular swell, we had a ton of wind and rain moving down the coast, but there was a small window showing a break in the weather with promising conditions. My partner in crime, Eric from Towsurfer.com and photographer Fred Pompermyer.

We left at 3 am in poring rain and wind all the way up the coast and about an hour from our final destination the weather broke and everything got super calm. We had our sights on a mini slab that always gets super good with a West swell.

We got to the boat ramp, set up the skis with rescue sleds and packed our tow boards and my SUP surf board and paddle, suited up and off we went. Conditions were so perfect, we couldn’t believe it. We got to the off shore slab wave and I will let the pictures show the rest of the adventure and yes, I took a good couple beatings this day; making it that much better.

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Off shore slab doing it's thing.
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on the way out to the slab in between storm fronts.
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this is what it's all about, Adventure!!
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The diamond in the rough; life is good....
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The sun even graced us during my SUP session.
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Sunset, ending an epic day of surf.

Fun Winter day SUP surfing at home

Living in Southern California; we really don’t get the huge Winter swells like up North, but we always get a couple fun glassy days here at my local break. There’s nothing like getting good waves at home and running down the street for a couple hours of paddling.

Today I hooked up with my good friend and pro surfer KC Curtis for a little glassy SUP session.

all photos are by Tim Ditty

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Gravels reef showing potential.

it's awesome to get smooth conditions like this at home

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KC carving the high line.
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light off shore winds.

 

 

SUP shaping with Mark Johnson of Hobie surfboards

Having a sponsor like Hobie surfboards has been really fun because I live just up the street and when I want to do some R&D or try out some new designs or even shape something new and exciting to try in the waves, it’s all at my finger tips.

So today, I met up with Hobie shaper, “Mark Johnson” to cut and shape a new 8’6 shorter version of my 9’9 CP Stinger model. I love being able to see a board go through all the stages of being shaped, to glassing and then sanding etc. I really get to appreciate the board once i am in the water riding my new creation.

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Talking about the nose shape and rocker
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showing the top outline

 

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stoked to have Mark johnson as my shaper
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killer little SUP shred stick

 

 

 

Go Pro SUP race board self portrait shots

 

Ever since I got a couple Go Pro wide angle water proof cameras, I can’t help but take them with me every time I hit the water.

 

Today I went for a killer paddle outside the Dana Point harbor to enjoy the sunset and get a couple cool self portrait board mount shots.

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Back mount on my 18' Hobie unlimited race board inside the harbor
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this shot makes the 12'6 race board look like an open ocean power boat.

 

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back lit shot on my 12'6 Hobie Carbon race board
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Cool shot of the birds gliding next to me

 

 

 

SUP surfing the North Shore

The North Shore is the epicenter for Winter swells and a great place for me to push my big wave SUP surfing and waterman skills.

I really enjoy working hard for my sponsors and with great photographers like Tim Ditty anytime I’m in the water.

Here are a couple cool shots by Tim Ditty of a typical North Shore day with some fun Winter swell.

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testing my 10'6 SUP gun in some fun size at Phantoms
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getting in early on a fun peak with size is awesome..
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taking off late is always a heavy gamble. Ha ha
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paying the price and enjoying every minute of it. ha ha
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getting caught inside on a bomb set is not an option. paddling for the safety of the channel as i watch good friend Sean, pull the rip cord. ha ha
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evening session at Pinballs, Waiamea
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Small but fun and the crowd is perfect.
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Inside bowl with TJ Saeman

West side, Makaha road trip

 

I always like to do visit the boys at Makaha on the West side. I love just checking everything out and enjoying the scenery and getting some fun waves.

 

Here are a couple fun lifestyle and surf shots

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Looking towards Makaha
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There are a lot of tent cities like this on the beach on this side of the island. Hawaiian Holiday inn.
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West side fun
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Traveling with good friends makes every trip awesome. Tim Ditty and TJ Saeman.
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More Go Pro camera shots on the West side.
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some good solid swell this day.
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running for the end bowl.
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nice and cleanNo matter where I am, I always study the ocean to get a solid game plan in place if anything were to go wrong and it gives me a good idea where to catch the best waves.
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I love doing huge off the lip floaters no matter how big it is..
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Nothing like getting a good set wave on the outside, Makaha
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The famous Makaha back wash. so much fun..
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Another great session worth smiling about.

North Shore Hawaii

I always make a couple trips to Hawaii to chase swell, wind and hang with good friends and get as much water time in as possible.

One of my good friends and long time shaper, Sean Jensen, has a great dream place on the North Shore with a killer family and super talented kids that I love to visit. Here are a couple fun shots of one of my many trips this last Winter.

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Sean still creating magic boards in between Winter swells
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Dream compound
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Paradise.
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best way to relax after a long day in the water. ha ha
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fresh eggs in the morning anyone??
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and for those hard beatings in big waves; Sean's neighbor Bob has a barometric chamber which is filled with pure oxygen and helps you heal any injuries plus feel insane after words.
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breathing the good stuff and ready to charge more tomorrow.