Sunset Beach Pro SUP Surf World Tour Trials
It was a solid day of rising swell 6′-8′ swell with a bunch of 10′-12′ ft clean up sets.
Went out at sunrise to get a couple good warm up waves and get the conditions dialed.
I got a couple great waves and my Naish Hokua 9’8 was feeling great for the size.
Sure enough when you get a little comfortable, thats when it happens; Kai Lenny and I were paddling for this one steep bomb that I
didn’t want to let go by and getting into it a little late, I air dropped down the face, landed and set up for the bottom turn just as the lip went over my head and shut the garage door, sending me deep to the bottom, rag dolling for several seconds trying to figure out which way was up and finally I climbed my leash rope to the surface for air.
I came up laughing and collected my gear and paddled back out to get a couple more just to keep my head in the game.
I competed in 3, 20 minute heats against a strong competitive field of athletes from all over the world.
I went into each heat with one thing in mind; to have as much fun as surfing and hitting the lip in the most critical place possible and it worked.
I can’t say I wasn’t nervous or full of adrenaline, but going against the best always brings out the best in you.
In The last heat, the swell was getting pretty maxed out with a couple close out sets and the wind and rain turned onshore making it pretty difficult, where any mistake could take you out of the game.
I concentrated on getting the biggest waves and if nothing came my way, I just stayed busy on the inside which ended up working in my favor.
It’s funny how sometimes you really feel like you didn’t surf to the best of your ability and you come in after your heat thinking you lost and you end
Thats a great humbling reminder to never give up and to always remember that everyone in your heat deals with their own set of challenges where you
never know what can happen. That always makes for a pleasant surprise… LOL
Now I made it into the first round of the main event, I really look forward to doing it all over again.
Super stoked and I’m hoping for huge surf to separate the men from the boys.
Thanks to all my sponsors for your great support and in helping me do what I love to do.